Part 1 - STOPPING IS NOT OPTIONAL

Part 2 - THE BRAKE CONTROLLER

Hydraulically controlled brake controllers rely on the brake light signal to make this happen. The signal from the brake line pressure doesn't go into effect until the tow-vehicle brakes actuate. Cable type controllers are essentially doing the same thing, except they detect the slight "tug" on the cable instead of detecting the brake light signal.

On most brake controllers, the driver adjusts this initial power output with the GAIN control. That way, the power can be reduced in city driving to keep the trailer from "grabbing" the brakes, resulting in the "bobble head" effect on the tow-vehicle occupants. The safety issue here is that the driver can fail to turn the gain back up for high-speed driving, which can result in an accident in a panic stop situation.

Once the accelerometer or other input device takes over, the power sent to the brakes depends on two factors: the reading from the input device and the gain. In the case of an accelerometer based controller, the deceleration of the tow-vehicle is measured and, depending how rapidly the tow-vehicle is slowing, power is sent to the trailer brakes. Again, this output is limited by the gain setting. This is true of any brake controller, whether it taps into the brake line, cables to the brake pedal, or uses an accelerometer to control power to the trailer brakes. The goal of any of these controllers is to make the trailer brakes work in conjunction with the tow-vehicle brakes.

• Part 4 - Myth #2: Proportional braking is the key to smooth trailer braking 

• Part 5 - Myth #3: RVers are simply stuck with inadequate trailer braking.

• Part 6 - Ease of use and functionality 

• Part 7 - Conclusions and recommendation