Cikira Classic Cruiser travel trailer review - Roaming Times
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Cikira Classic Cruiser travel trailer
See forum at bottom of page

"The quality you've come to expect in a Classic Cruiser, with all the comforts of home" - lengths from 14'9" to 21'9"

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Important dimensions:
 8 floorplans are currently available (7/09) - we show these below.
Exterior length from 14'9" to 21'9", Width 7'
Exterior height 8'2" (add 14" for A/C), Interior height 6'4"
GVWR 3100 to 4900 lbs, CCC from 1140 to 1825 lbs
Hitch weight 215 to 325 lbs

Starting MSRP
 around $16000 (2010 model)
See dealer for price based upon model and options
Compare? - see other Roaming Times travel trailer reviews

Cikira Classic Cruiser travel trailer exterior
The picture above shows the 18FD

The 8 Cikira Classic Cruiser models offer a wide range of layouts as we show on the floorplans below.  We give 4 interior pictures below showing the general quality of the furnishings and fittings and the clever layouts.  The first 2 pictures show the dinette arrangement of the 16LB model and the bathroom arrangement of the 13FD model.  This latter model - the 13FD is the shortest at only 14'9" long but still has a nice bathroom layout.

Cikira Classic Cruiser travel trailer interiors - 16LB dinette and 13FD bathroom

The following pictures show the interior of the 18FD on the left, with the gaucho arrangement and the bunks in the 16FD model:

Cikira Classic Cruiser travel trailer interiors - 18FD interior showing gaucho and 16FD bunk arrangement

FLOORPLANS

There is a wide range of 8 floorplans to suit families. The 13FD (the shortest model at only 14'9" has a 60"x80" dinette/queen bed arrangement.  The 16FD (16') has the dinette/queen bed but with 24'x76" bunks in addition.

The 16LB has the dinette/queen bed but with a length of 16' gives more spacious feel to the layout.  The 18BH adds 30"x75" and increases the length to 18'9".  The 18FB and the 18FD are also 18'9" but the 18FB adds a permanent bed while the 18FD adds a 72"x40" gaucho.

The 21FB (21'9") has a bed and OH cabinet bunk and the 21RB (also 21'9" - the longest length models) has a nice open arrangement with an open queen bed and center kitchen and dinette.

Really nice layouts - as you can see below:

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"The quality you've come to expect in a Classic Cruiser, with all the comforts of home" - lengths from 14'9" to 21'9" 
Compare? - see other Roaming Times travel trailer reviews
Other Cikira reviews

 
What do you think? Add your comments below...

  

FORUM
READERS' COMMENTS ABOUT CIKIRA RVs
(Latest comments first)

What do you think? - add your comments here  
  
authorcomments
L.A.inColo.Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for all your honest comments about this travel trailer!! I was seriously looking for one to purchase and after reading the comments, I'm happy to say that I will NOT be purchasing a Cikira. No wonder they're no longer in business.
ChrisTexanAdditional note, I was worried about wall damage (the front wall likely has some from leakage, but not the side walls). In a fortunate twist, the walls are "dry" because of the linoleum, it actually served as a buffer to keep floor moisture seperate from them. If they'd built it right, they'd have had a vapor barrier run from inside of RV (tacked under tack strip at bottom of wall to hide it) run under the wall, out of the RV, then OVER the rubber underlayer (all covered by the stainless). That way, any exterior wall leaks, would run over the barrier and outside the floor "pan", instead of collecting inside the rubber and saturating the floor.
ChrisTexanRandall - if you add hotmail or gmail to my name, you'll have my email address, would like to see your solution, keep in mind I want to do a WHOLE floor fix. Others, as with most RVs, the floor is first, then the walls. The floor is bolted to the frame, then the walls are screwed on from underneath the floor at the perimeter (you have to pull off the corner cladding and underlayment to see them). Easy enough to get the walls loose (except the rusted screwheads fall apart). Interior walls and furniture are screwed "down" into the floor from inside. Haven't gone further than some disassembly and discovery yet, ultimately the challenge is getting the interior items "loose", and lifting the walls off the floor (mine actually have settled about 1/8" below floor level in some places due to floor softness). I have a plan in place, but I also have just received an offer for mine "as-is" so might not be a problem much longer if it goes through. Email me if you want (make Subject "Cikira RV" so it jumps out at me!)) and I'll describe in detail what's needed.
Dave from Ky.Cris, I'm about to start the same thing you were going to do.With about the same camper.How were the sides attached to the floor
MichaelI also bought a Classic Cruiser 16LB and have a floor issue - it is soft and wet and needs replacement. It looks like the whole trailer is built up after the floor was installed so I am not sure how I can easily replace the whole floor. Randal Bates - can you forward this email to me? MF1590 "at" aol.com - any hints or experience reports are appreciated! thanks a bunch!
Randall BatesHey Chris Texan got an e-mail can send ya the fix easy as pie you will need a table saw to rip some 1 1/2" by 2 1/2 they use 1 1/2 x 3 and 1/2 inch plywood on the floor I used 1" marine ply and ditched the wadding pool option
DukeGreat floor plan on my 18CCB, but what a piece of junk. Floor is chipboard, gets damp falls apart, walk across it, it breaks down and falls apart. Side wall are thin fiberglass on chipboard, condensation collects, gets damp and falls apart. Poor fit on all joints. The front fiberglass chipboard gets damp and soft and cups in while being towed, will eventually split. I drilled one inch holes inside on the front and filled the entire front cavity with liquid foam, then put in hole plugs, Had to cover floor with plywood. Had to chalk all seams, joints, etc. It is usable but you really have to keep an eye on things. I consider it to be just another American made piece of junk. Had a 30' Tioga motorhome before this and it wasn't much better. Buyer beware, be truely beware.
ChrisTexanOh, forgot to mention, I'm in Texas, it hasn't rained since early summer other than a single light sprinkle in 6 months... when I pulled the front table pedestal out to check the wood under it, the wood is literally "WET"... I push on the floor and water is oozing out of it. It's a good testament to how well the rubber sheet prevents water passing (out), and that the seal around the table pedestals was quite good.
ChrisTexanFollow up to previous comment of 2 years ago (see below). Entire RV floor is shot, after I carefully had sealed every visible joint possible. DO NOT BUY ONE OF THESE, USED OR NEW STOCK!) Ihave now found why, it's an entire design flaw. Cikira sealed the bottom with a rubber sheet (good). They then stapled the edges of the vertically around the edges (bad, think "bathtub lining"). THEN they made it much worse... they added nice-looking "diamond plate" around the edges. But they didn't seal it (at ALL!!!). They then hid the seam with snap-on molding strips which snapped to a frame that they cut "short" all over. They barely added sealant to the edges of the moldings (which are loosely mounted at each end to begin with), which of course immediately separated from the walls, and shrunk leaving open ends. SO now you have 360-degree molding strips, covering an open metal flap which funnels the water straight into the rubber bathtub which surrounds the ENTIRE RV. After the following steps, I pulled a small part of the sidewall lower wraps out to check things out (rotten floor behind).... So my floor is shot, to anyone who says "it's just compressed styrofoam"... in my 2006, there is ZERO insulation of any sort, just bare, rotted 5/8 (guesstimate) OSB or other particle board (can't tell, it's soggy dust on mine). I first pulled out the table mounts to get a look, if you want to look at yours this is an easy place to check... it goes linoleum, wood, rubber sheet. So before I go any further taking things apart, does anyone KNOW for sure how the sidewalls are joined to the floor? I know now that the large bolts going through the frame rails are NOT from the walls, just from the floor. My hope is that the walls are joined from under the floor (bolted upwards), as they appear to be of a "uni-laminate" construction (plywood/styrofoam/plywood). This tells me it was probably pre-assembled, then joined to the floors, which I HOPE means that it bolts from underneath. If so, then I can drop the sheeting around the edges, and remove the bolts (after clearing out the interior as much as possible) in order to slip in new flooring. But I need some confirmation, I don't want to pull all that apart only to not be able to fix it (I know it won't be easy either way)... if they built the wall in place, or bolted it down internally before skinning the outside for instance, then my plan is pretty much shot, so if anyone has an idea of this specific brand/model construction, I'd really appreciate it, otherwise I'll tear in first and figure it out later I suppose!
Norm in FloridaWOW! I wish I had seen all these comments before buying my 2006 18'. I'm dealing with all the same issues, especially floor rot in front of the fridge and kitchen area. I've scoured the entire area and find no evidence of any water intrusion yet the problem worsens. I just laid down some plywood and will cover it with vinyl flooring. What a P.O.S.!
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