Cikira Retro-Lite small travel trailer - Roaming Times
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2009 Cikira Retro-Lite small travel trailer
See reader's comments and experiences at bottom of page

"Looks good behind your tow keeping with the early 1950s trailer style"

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"A lightweight, extremely high quality travel trailer that is efficient to build and simple in design. The manufacturing concept behind these travel trailers utilizes the most modern manufacturing processes available today but keeping the old world tradition of quality fit and finish"
around $20,500 but check with dealer
Cikira Retro-Lite small travel trailer exterior

Retro-style trailers don't look like standard RVs and this look is popular with some buyers. The Washington Post, writing about the 2009 Lousiville trade show said the Cikira retro look was popular because the trailers "have a certain charm that's giving them the exciting visual appeal many people desire. A retro RV actually looks good behind your favorite midsize SUV, crossover or other tow vehicle of choice."

"The 160 FD model offers practical living in a 16-foot length. A mostly white exterior, accented by minimal graphics, keeps the Retro-Lite clean looking. Rounded front and aft walls, in keeping with the early 1950s trailer style, also enhance aerodynamics for improved towing. The 16-foot unit has a 3,830-pound GVWR and weighs about 1,830 pounds dry, so you have a range of towing options."  We show 3 pictures of the simple Retro-Lite interior below:

Cikira Retro-Lite small travel trailer interior

Cikira Retro-Lite small travel trailer interior from other side

Cikira Retro-Lite small travel trailer interior dinette

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Cikira Retro-Lite small travel trailer floorplans 

"Has a certain charm that's giving them the exciting visual appeal many people desire. A retro RV actually looks good behind your favorite midsize SUV, crossover or other tow vehicle of choice."
Compare? - see other Roaming Times travel trailer reviews
Other Cikira reviews

What do you think? Add your comments below...


(Latest comments first)

What do you think? - add your comments here  
L.A.inColo.Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for all your honest comments about this travel trailer!! I was seriously looking for one to purchase and after reading the comments, I'm happy to say that I will NOT be purchasing a Cikira. No wonder they're no longer in business.
ChrisTexanAdditional note, I was worried about wall damage (the front wall likely has some from leakage, but not the side walls). In a fortunate twist, the walls are "dry" because of the linoleum, it actually served as a buffer to keep floor moisture seperate from them. If they'd built it right, they'd have had a vapor barrier run from inside of RV (tacked under tack strip at bottom of wall to hide it) run under the wall, out of the RV, then OVER the rubber underlayer (all covered by the stainless). That way, any exterior wall leaks, would run over the barrier and outside the floor "pan", instead of collecting inside the rubber and saturating the floor.
ChrisTexanRandall - if you add hotmail or gmail to my name, you'll have my email address, would like to see your solution, keep in mind I want to do a WHOLE floor fix. Others, as with most RVs, the floor is first, then the walls. The floor is bolted to the frame, then the walls are screwed on from underneath the floor at the perimeter (you have to pull off the corner cladding and underlayment to see them). Easy enough to get the walls loose (except the rusted screwheads fall apart). Interior walls and furniture are screwed "down" into the floor from inside. Haven't gone further than some disassembly and discovery yet, ultimately the challenge is getting the interior items "loose", and lifting the walls off the floor (mine actually have settled about 1/8" below floor level in some places due to floor softness). I have a plan in place, but I also have just received an offer for mine "as-is" so might not be a problem much longer if it goes through. Email me if you want (make Subject "Cikira RV" so it jumps out at me!)) and I'll describe in detail what's needed.
Dave from Ky.Cris, I'm about to start the same thing you were going to do.With about the same camper.How were the sides attached to the floor
MichaelI also bought a Classic Cruiser 16LB and have a floor issue - it is soft and wet and needs replacement. It looks like the whole trailer is built up after the floor was installed so I am not sure how I can easily replace the whole floor. Randal Bates - can you forward this email to me? MF1590 "at" - any hints or experience reports are appreciated! thanks a bunch!
Randall BatesHey Chris Texan got an e-mail can send ya the fix easy as pie you will need a table saw to rip some 1 1/2" by 2 1/2 they use 1 1/2 x 3 and 1/2 inch plywood on the floor I used 1" marine ply and ditched the wadding pool option
DukeGreat floor plan on my 18CCB, but what a piece of junk. Floor is chipboard, gets damp falls apart, walk across it, it breaks down and falls apart. Side wall are thin fiberglass on chipboard, condensation collects, gets damp and falls apart. Poor fit on all joints. The front fiberglass chipboard gets damp and soft and cups in while being towed, will eventually split. I drilled one inch holes inside on the front and filled the entire front cavity with liquid foam, then put in hole plugs, Had to cover floor with plywood. Had to chalk all seams, joints, etc. It is usable but you really have to keep an eye on things. I consider it to be just another American made piece of junk. Had a 30' Tioga motorhome before this and it wasn't much better. Buyer beware, be truely beware.
ChrisTexanOh, forgot to mention, I'm in Texas, it hasn't rained since early summer other than a single light sprinkle in 6 months... when I pulled the front table pedestal out to check the wood under it, the wood is literally "WET"... I push on the floor and water is oozing out of it. It's a good testament to how well the rubber sheet prevents water passing (out), and that the seal around the table pedestals was quite good.
ChrisTexanFollow up to previous comment of 2 years ago (see below). Entire RV floor is shot, after I carefully had sealed every visible joint possible. DO NOT BUY ONE OF THESE, USED OR NEW STOCK!) Ihave now found why, it's an entire design flaw. Cikira sealed the bottom with a rubber sheet (good). They then stapled the edges of the vertically around the edges (bad, think "bathtub lining"). THEN they made it much worse... they added nice-looking "diamond plate" around the edges. But they didn't seal it (at ALL!!!). They then hid the seam with snap-on molding strips which snapped to a frame that they cut "short" all over. They barely added sealant to the edges of the moldings (which are loosely mounted at each end to begin with), which of course immediately separated from the walls, and shrunk leaving open ends. SO now you have 360-degree molding strips, covering an open metal flap which funnels the water straight into the rubber bathtub which surrounds the ENTIRE RV. After the following steps, I pulled a small part of the sidewall lower wraps out to check things out (rotten floor behind).... So my floor is shot, to anyone who says "it's just compressed styrofoam"... in my 2006, there is ZERO insulation of any sort, just bare, rotted 5/8 (guesstimate) OSB or other particle board (can't tell, it's soggy dust on mine). I first pulled out the table mounts to get a look, if you want to look at yours this is an easy place to check... it goes linoleum, wood, rubber sheet. So before I go any further taking things apart, does anyone KNOW for sure how the sidewalls are joined to the floor? I know now that the large bolts going through the frame rails are NOT from the walls, just from the floor. My hope is that the walls are joined from under the floor (bolted upwards), as they appear to be of a "uni-laminate" construction (plywood/styrofoam/plywood). This tells me it was probably pre-assembled, then joined to the floors, which I HOPE means that it bolts from underneath. If so, then I can drop the sheeting around the edges, and remove the bolts (after clearing out the interior as much as possible) in order to slip in new flooring. But I need some confirmation, I don't want to pull all that apart only to not be able to fix it (I know it won't be easy either way)... if they built the wall in place, or bolted it down internally before skinning the outside for instance, then my plan is pretty much shot, so if anyone has an idea of this specific brand/model construction, I'd really appreciate it, otherwise I'll tear in first and figure it out later I suppose!
Norm in FloridaWOW! I wish I had seen all these comments before buying my 2006 18'. I'm dealing with all the same issues, especially floor rot in front of the fridge and kitchen area. I've scoured the entire area and find no evidence of any water intrusion yet the problem worsens. I just laid down some plywood and will cover it with vinyl flooring. What a P.O.S.!
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